clubbyman
5 posts
Joined: 07/11/2009 18:40:08
Location: upminster United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
clutch kit
hello . i brought a clutch kit from mini spares and it has a small tube of red grease. has anyone elce had this? any ideas where i have to put it ?
many thanks dean
Posted: Nov 07, 2010 10:43 AM
Tim
1849 posts
Joined: 18/10/2004 09:40:59
Location: Bournemouth United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Is this a clutch slave repair kit? The red grease is for lubricating inside the rubber dust cap.
Posted: Nov 08, 2010 05:16 PM
no,this is the 3 piece diaphram clutch replacement kit,Dean.
Posted: Nov 08, 2010 05:46 PM
Then the grease must be for the splines on the clutch plate. I would use it very sparingly if I were you, if at all!
Posted: Nov 09, 2010 08:47 AM
o.k.thanks for the advice,Dean.
Posted: Nov 09, 2010 07:15 PM
Russell Clarke
2 posts
Joined: 24/05/2010 20:15:16
Location: Belturbet Ireland (S.)
clutch slave cylinder repair kit
hi i have a 1990 mini checkmate and am lookin for a clutch slave cylinder repair kit but i am having trouble finding one and was wondering if anyone could help me find one??
Thanks
Posted: Mar 23, 2011 09:46 AM
norm
12 posts
Joined: 03/10/2008 10:16:05
Location: consett United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
clutch cylinder repair kit
Try Minisport (padiham) GRK 3004 (1959/2001) £4.04 +postage
Posted: Mar 23, 2011 10:58 PM
robmaddog1965
10 posts
Joined: 15/09/2007 14:32:38
Location: plymouth United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
clutch slipping when hot
ap clutch kit has cured the problem thanks for comments
Posted: Feb 29, 2008 01:29 AM
Gaz
50 posts
Joined: 16/02/2006 16:06:42
Location: albrighton United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
re:
There's not a lot of choice for verto clutches! the obvious option would be to go for the turbo clutch kit by AP, otherwise it might be worth considering converting diaphram where you'll get a lot more tuning options!
Posted: Nov 07, 2008 06:55 PM
zakgt
4 posts
Joined: 08/04/2005 13:45:59
Location: Maynooth Ireland (S.)
MPI leads 2,1,4,3
I replaced the veto clutch (full kit) in my 98 MPI, it will now only start if the leads are a 2,1,4,3 sequence rather than a 1,2,3,4. It is possible to put a clutch in 180 degrees out, or any suggestions what is wrong ? possibly a SPI clutch ?
Posted: Jan 29, 2007 11:22 PM
DANIEL
6 posts
Joined: 01/03/2005 09:32:03
Location: IPSWICH United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Slipping Clutch
Ive just finished building a 1293 engine kit along with a S/C C/R gear kit and a new road clutch (plate, diaphragm spring, release bearing and pressure plate), I tried the car for the first time on Monday but unfortunately the clutch slip quite badly straight away as I accelerated down the road. Under gentle acceleration up to 30 it is ok, I tried to accelerate from a 30 limit to a 40 limit in 4th gear (only giving about 1/4 throttle) but the clutch slipped allot. Ive tried it on a duel-carriageway once (which was only about 1/2 mile long) where I accelerated gently to avoid the clutch from slipping and got to about 55mph and there was a slight burning smell which I thought may have been the clutch. We have checked the clutch arm and that is releasing ok and is adjusted correctly. Ive tried driving at a steady 30 in 4th and slowly depressing the clutch pedal, the pedal goes down about a 1/3 of the way before the clutch starts to slip so that must be releasing ok. We thought there might be oil seeping through the oil seal but then also thought this would take a while to get on to the clutch plate, if this being the case it wouldnt have slipped first time I went down the road. Please could someone give me some advice as to what might be wrong because my Dad and me are both confused. Any help or advice on this matter would be greatly appricated. Thanks and kind regards, Daniel.
Posted: Mar 04, 2005 10:20 AM
jag_clarke
1948 posts
Joined: 28/05/2006 16:49:46
Location: cambridge United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
re
there isnt alot to worry about ul need a new top radiator bracket if old engine is 998, the oil breather on rad side of engine may need flattening a bit with hammer to clear fan from old engine. rad should be ok from 998 as it was same 3 core one used on all models but uprated one may avoid overheating in hot summer traffic jams but itsnt esential but give it good flush with tap/hose. late 1275 metro use cable clutch i think 85 should be ok, think its hydralic still. carb need is fine, speedo should read correctly if ur mini is post 1980. brakes if ur mini is pre 84 might be worth upgrading to discs for safety metro brakes can be modifyied to fit so worth holding onto them if metro gets scrapped. the heater hose outlet will need drilling out on 1275 metro just so some water can flow about 10mm drill bit. i think thats pritty much it. buy new engine mounts x2, engine steady mounts x2, water hose gasket, may need new heater hoses/vacume pipes. also if ur mini hasnt got servo brakes u will need a plug to blank servo take off on intake manifold. ul need an engine hoist to get engine out iv done without in past its not worth it, also make sure u connect speedo cable before engine fully in car. water pump on metro will be standard large one and clutch type wont matter. if its pre 1980 mini say il list extra things ul need to do.
ps ur best fit stage one kit at same time as if not ul need a 1990-1991 mini cooper exhaust down pipe which is expensive and rc40 kit which costs nearly as much as stage 1 kit
Posted: May 13, 2009 09:42 PM
Barry Brown
511 posts
Joined: 23/06/2008 12:08:31
Location: New Barn United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Mini Cooper Engine Stabilizers
Hi, The usual culprit is the one between the engine block and the bulkhead to the lright of the engine above the clutch slave cylinder. If you let them get too slack they can tear the bracket off the bulkhead and then you have an expensive repair to make. The next one in at the bottom front and fixes the sump to the leading edge of the subframe - they had several places for mouting them depending on the year. The engine mounts are also critical to handling and they have a nasty habit of seperating. The righthand one is under the clutch housing and the lefthand one is under the crankshaft pulley - all viewed as if you were sitting in the drivers seat. Yo can fit the aftermarket stabilser kit that bolts from the engine to the grille but this is really only for racers as it transmits so much vibration. If you drive your cooper with any kind of spirit then expect to knock out the upper steady bar rubbers every 6-12 months. While you're down there - check the subframe to body front mounts as they shear away far too easily - fit solid alloy blocks and enjoy just how much better it makes the ride. Cheap and effective!
Posted: Nov 02, 2011 02:14 PM
Mike City
1 posts
Joined: 19/06/2018 16:56:12
Location: Zabbar Malta
Clutch
Hi had trouble with ingaugeing gears and was juddering a lot to, took My Mini to a good Mechanic ? said that had to replace the clutch, bought new borg&beck kit he fitted the new parts and still gears do not ingauge Mechanic said that the flywheel needs to be replaced had a spare engine which was in working a few months ago so I decided to replace it myself but the result is still the same, any suggestions it not the first time that I replace a Mini clutch never had this trouble.
Kind regards Michael
Posted: Jul 15, 2018 09:43 PM
paddy the irishman
Joined: 07/01/2008 20:56:29
Location: ballymoney United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Clutch pedal seized
your mini is 1990's so the brake master cylinder will be located on the brake servo. that leaves only one master cylinder on the bulk head which is the one or the clutch. To bleed the clutch cylinder it will be easier and cleaner (BRAKE FLUID STRIPS PAINT) to use a pipe kit from halfords. Go easy with the hammer on the clutch arm as you can easily crack the clutch housing if it's not already cracked. You may have to remove the split pin from the pivot pin and take it out before cleaning it all up with sand paper and reassembling with copper grease. Have fun an GOOD LUCK>
Posted: Jan 07, 2008 09:23 PM
blue_lump_brian
3 posts
Joined: 07/01/2008 20:17:33
Location: slough United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
What shallI do with my rusty minivan?
But I've already bought the angle grinder discs!!!!!!!!! Sleep tight, I'm going with the consensus that it's better preserved as a minivan- I did ask, and got a decisive answer- thanks. The agenda now is: enough conservative work to get it street legal, and drive it around to drum up interest. The current state is: engine running, wheels moving but stiff, brakes seized solid, corrosion points- depends on the MOT man, clutch... very strange- it's permanently disengaged- how could that happen, and how do I fix it? Supplementary questions- what additives can I use to run it on unleaded, and if I do decide on a kit car, are old-style minis still plentiful enough to use as a donor?
Posted: Feb 01, 2008 07:40 PM
Stoves
Joined: 25/10/2011 20:23:44
Location: Grimsby United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Posted: Nov 02, 2011 06:19 PM
Something's seized - either the master cylinder, the slave cylinder, or the clutch lever assembly.
You can check if the master cylinder is seized by opening the bleed valve on the slave cylinder, and then trying the pedal (use a bleed kit if you have one, otherwise put lots of old rags round the valve as you don't want brake fluid everywhere). If the pedal now goes down, that means the master cylinder is OK.
Posted: Jan 04, 2008 11:39 AM
Paul
25 posts
Joined: 13/10/2004 20:07:25
Location: Rochford United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Clutch Master Cylinder Explosion
Hi there After successfully replacing the slave cylinder, I sat back and was in awe at my own fine handy work. And thats when God noticed me and the fact that something on my car now worked. Unknowing of the godly powers that hung over me I then thought it would be a jolly good idea to bleed said clutch. Out comes the eazi bleed kit as per usual (I dont have many friends ) After attaching the kit and then using a tyre for the pressure, the bottom of the already antique master cylinder decided to finally give up and remove itself from the car. Anyway story ends here. How much would it be to remove and replace the MC if is was to ask a mechanic? Any rough guesses Cheers Paully
Posted: Jun 16, 2005 07:56 PM
Liirge
Joined: 16/09/2007 19:42:23
Location: Goudhurst United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Parts
Hello,
I hope this is the right place for this but i need to query parts on this site to see if they will Fit on to a 1966 Morris Mini Moke, with the 10" Wheels.
The following parts i'm hoping will fit, please correct me if im wrong.
R\H Rear Brake Backplate built up kit, 21A1058KIT
L\H Rear Brake Backplate built up Kit, 21A1060KIT
R\H Front Brake Backplate built up kit, 37H2013KIT
L\H Front Brake Backplate built up Kit, 37H2014KIT
Brake Master Cylinder, GMC171
Clutch Master Cylinder,GMC1008
Clutch Slave Cylinder Pre Verto, GSY110
Thankyou very much, iam very eager to hear your responses and to get this project moving!!
Regards
Alastair.
Posted: Oct 30, 2007 05:14 PM